概览
回民街是西安鼓楼以北、北院门一带历史街区的统称，当地人称「回坊」，聚居着世代经商的回族居民。青石铺路的街巷两侧老字号与小吃摊档林立，羊肉泡馍、肉夹馍、镜糕、酸梅汤等西北美食闻名全国，是西安最具烟火气的夜游之地。「坊上」在西安人的话语里，几乎就是美食的代名词。[1]
历史沿革
自唐代起，沿丝绸之路而来的穆斯林商旅陆续在长安城西市一带聚居；宋元以降渐成规模，明清时期形成今日的街巷格局。坊上保留有化觉巷清真大寺、大学习巷清真寺等古刹，其中化觉巷清真大寺相传始建于唐天宝元年（742 年），现存建筑主要为明清遗构。大学习巷清真寺相传同样始建于唐代，规模稍小而更清净。[1]
看点
北院门的高家大院是明代榜眼高岳崧故居，砖雕精美，常有皮影与秦腔表演；化觉巷清真大寺沿中轴线四进院落展开，将中国殿宇建筑与伊斯兰礼拜功能巧妙融合，省心楼、凤凰亭均为木构佳作。西羊市、大皮院等支巷则藏着更市井的老味道。深夜的烤肉摊与清晨的肉丸胡辣汤摊，各有各的拥趸。[1]
参观贴士
地铁 2 号线钟楼站下车步行即到，傍晚至夜间最为热闹。泡馍可体验亲手掰馍的乐趣，分量较大宜分食；坊上店家多为清真，请尊重禁食猪肉、禁酒的习俗。街巷拥挤，注意保管随身物品；节假日建议错峰前往。夏季街巷闷热拥挤，注意防暑降温，建议傍晚后再逛。节假日人流极大，请照看好老人与小孩。[1]
Overview
North of the Drum Tower, the warren of lanes around Beiyuanmen — known locally as the Huifang or Muslim Quarter — has been home to Hui Muslim trading families for generations. Stone-paved alleys are packed with time-honored stalls serving lamb paomo, roujiamo burgers, steamed mirror cakes, and sour plum juice, making this Xi'an's liveliest night-time food district.
Muslim merchants traveling the Silk Road began settling near Chang'an's Western Market in the Tang dynasty, and the quarter took its present shape in the Ming and Qing. The Great Mosque in Huajue Lane, traditionally founded in 742 and rebuilt in Ming-Qing styles, blends Chinese temple architecture with Islamic worship across four courtyards. The Gao Family Courtyard on Beiyuanmen hosts shadow-puppet and Qinqiang opera shows, while side lanes like Xiyangshi and Dapiyuan hide the locals' favorite kitchens.
Walk north from Zhonglou Station on subway Line 2; the quarter is busiest from dusk into the night. Try tearing your own flatbread for paomo — portions are generous, so share. Most vendors are halal: respect the customs of no pork and no alcohol. Lanes get crowded, so keep valuables secure and visit off-peak on holidays.
